Method of pulling over boots and shoes.



W. O. STEWART. METHOD OF PULLING OVER BOOTS AND SHOES. APPLICATION FILED mm: 25. 1914.

Patented Dec. 914.

a smzms- 1.

W. G. STEWART. METHOD OF PULLING OVER BOOTS AND SHOES. APPLIOATION FILED mm: 25, 1914.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

111- NORRIS PETERS CO. PHOTO'LITHCL WASHINUIUN. n r

Patented Dec. 1, 19 14.

W. G. STEWART.

METHOD OF PULLING OVER BOOTS AND SHOES. APPLICATION FILED JUNE 25, 1914.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

THE NORRIS PETERS C0. PHOTD-LITHu. WASHINUIUN. I), l.

UNITED sTATEs PATENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM C. STEWART, E swAMrsoo T, AssAoHUsETTs, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE ASSIGNMENTS, To UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, or PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION or NEW JERSEY. I

METHOD OF PULLING OVER BOOTS AND SHOES.

Original application filed November 14, 1906, Serial No. 343,458.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Dec. 1, 1914:.

Renewed May s, 1912, Serial No. 765,395.

Divided and this application filed June 25, 1914. Serial No. 847,312.

I To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, WILLIAM G. STEWART,

, a subjectof King George V of Great Britain,

and resident of fiwampscott, county of Essex, and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Methodsof Pulling Over Boots and Shoes, of which the following deation, the insole is preferably first applied, tacks or the scription, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters on the drawings representing like parts.

The invention to be hereinafter described relates to a method of pulling over the uppers of boots and shoes preparatory to the lasting operation. e

In preparin for the pulling over. operand secured to the last, as by like, andv then, the upper is assembled upon the last, being usually secured thereto teme ordinary the heel by a fastener driven therethroug and into the last, while the edge portions of the upper and the parts within it extend loosely about thelast.

Prior to the present invention, in. pulling over by hand, it-has been customary for the operative to jack the assembled last and shoe parts sole uppermost and then by the use of hand lasting pincers draw the upper stock, lining, and box toe over the toe end of the last and insole and to tack the porarily at ter' of the toe.- While the upper is being thus drafted forwardly at the toe, the operative maintains the middle finger of his left hand intouch with the tip line of the upper and attempts, by sense of touch alone, to pull the upper so that the tipline will be properly positioned across the last. He then seizes the upper stock, linings and box toe at one side of the toe, sometimes slightly forward of the tip line, and drafts said side forwardly and upwardly over the insole where it is temporarily secured by tacks, usually one at each side of one tip'line. The other side is then pulled over and tacked in a similar manner. During these operations the operative continues to use the sense of touch to determine the position of the upper upon thelast. Frequently after the pulled over shoe is taken off the jack and turned over for inspection, some or all of the tacks have to be withdrawn and the upper again pulled over to draft the upper stock propinsole at substantially the cenerly and position the upper correctly upon the last.

In the old hand method of pulling over, and in the various attempts that have heretofore been made to improve'thereon, the

transverse stretch of the upper, should be I carried out and completed before the drafted upper could be inspected and corrections made for any improper position of the upper on the last, thereby frequently necessitating withdrawal of the securing tacks and repetition of the operations. i y

With these and other matters in mind, the aims and purposes of the present invention' are to provide amethod of pulling over whereby the upper may be stretched before it is wrapped about'the last and when lying in substantially a single plane and may then, while under the stretching tension, be carried about the contour at the toe portion of the last, all as fully disclosed in the prior application'of WilliamO. Stewart, Serial No. 843,458, filed November 14:, 1906, renewal Serial No. 765,895, May 3, 1913, of which this is a division.

The term singleplane is herein used to designate that position assumed by the upper when it is assembled on the last at which time the upper edgesextend outward from the last at one side of the bottom thereof and theupper touches, if at all, only the top of the curved toe portion of the last, and not the curved surfaces at the sides of the toe portion. For convenience of description also, the term upper is herein used in its broad sense and includes not only the upper stock or material, but also the parts, such as the lining, box toe, and the like that are associated with. it.

In practising the invention, the present method contemplates stretching the upper both longitudinally and transversely either in the sequential order stated or otherwise,

I transversely. tudinally and but in the present exploitation, the method tion it on the last With the tip line indesired location and thereafter stretching it transversely drafted and positioned on the last and While still. under tension, is wrapped about the last or laid to the wood with its edges adjacent the;

insole, whereupon it is fastened in place, all as will hereinafter more fully appear.

An important advantage of the present" invention consists in imparting to the upper the full stretch or draft desired while the fore-part of the'upper is wholly at one side of the plane of the bottom of the last, so

In a single plane over the top curved tion of the last," Fig. 3 is a PIOSS-SQCtlOIl similar to that of Fig. 2 showlng the prethat from theheeland alongthe shank portions the upper is uniformly drafted or un-' der a stretching tension and, when the fore part of the upper is carried about the toe portion of the last adesired proper fullness 18- provided at the shank; Other characteristics of the present invention will be described hereinafter and be then defined by the claims.

' In the drawings which indicate a series of steps-constituting one mode of practising the present invention, Figure 1 shows in plan view, a lastfwith the upper assembled thereon and stretched longitudinally and transversely while in a single plane; Fig. '2

.' s a cross-section on the tip line of Fig. l

showingthe upperstretched transversely porviously stretched upper as "having been wrapped about the last, its edge carried into close relation with the insole, and secured in place by suitable fasteners; Fig. 4: is a side elevationpartly in section, showing one form of last support and a practical embodiment of means for drafting the upper longitudinally while in a single plane; Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional elevation showing the toe portion of the last in section and one form of means for stretching or drafting the upper transversely in a single plane.

As hereinbefore vention is characterized in its generic sense by imparting to the upper such stretch as is desired while the upper is substantially in a single plane and thereafter placing the stretched upper about the toe portion of the last. The plane in which the upper is stretched before it is wrapped or placed about the toe portion of the last, is located at oneside of the plane of the bottom of the last, and in case the last is supported sole downward, thisplane of stretch will be above the plane of the bottom of the last. r

In Figs. 1, 2 and 3, the procedure orsteps of the present method are indicated as be- The upper being thus longitop portion ofthe last the last, at which-time top of the toe portion,

stated, the present in-' bottom, of the last; but

stretch is at that side of the plane of the last bottom which ordinarilyconstitutesthe fore-part. When the upper- 2 and' last- 1 areassembled, as in Fig. 1, the edge portions 3 of'the upper-extend orproject laterally over and from the last, substantially as ind-icatedand above the plane of the bottom of the last. lhis is substantially the natural position assumed by the upperwhen assembledon the forepart of the upper touches, lf'glt touches at an, only the 1 and the present invention contemplates that whilein substantially this position the upper shall i be stretched or drafted." This step in the series is indicated in Fig. 1, wherein the projecting edge. of .the upper is shown as seized at the end of the toe and at each end of the tip line and by relative movement of the holdin means, 5, ant the last 1 the upper. has been stretched or drafted whileextendingsubstantially in a single plane at one side of the plane of the last bottom.

This stretching of the plane is further exemplified by the cross sectional View, Fig. 2, wherein the grippers 5, one at each sideof the toe portion of the such as the grippersefand upper in a single uppers, are indicated as imparting to the upper 2 its noted that at this time the upper 2 touches only the. top of the curved toe portion of the last 1, and insome cases may not touch the last at all, sothat little or no frictional resistance betweenthe last and'upperis intransverse stretch. It is to be curred in imparting to all parts of the upper properly, and thereafter the upper is stretched transversely, both of said stretching actions being performed while the upper is still in a single plane atone side ofthe plane 'ofthe last bottom. is thus treated in the single plane at one side-0f the last bottom, the longitudinalpull from the toe along the shank to the heel is Since: the upper exerted with substantial uniformity upon a smooth unfulled upper, so that when the. thereafter carried about the toe instance, such relative movements are 'secured. preferably as pointed out by said prior application, wherein after the grippers have seized the edges of the upper at the toe portion, the longitudinal draft is imparted by movement of the last heelward and the transverse draft by movement of separation of the grippers at the sides of the toe portion. One form of means for thus practising the present method is fully set forth in said prior application, and is herein briefly described in connection with Figs. 4 and 5. j The last 1 with the upper 2 assembled thereon, as hereinbefore explained, may be sustained upon a suitable support, as indicated in Fig. 4, wherein the heel portion of the last is seated in a heel rest 40 and between arms 44 of a heel support carried by the rods 30 adapted to yield in response to heelward movement of the last, as fully described in said priorapplication, and the ball of the last is placed upon wings 21 of a ball support withthe end of the toe ofthe;

last resting against a positioning stop 52. Side positioning stops 54, Fig. 5, may be further provided for engaging the last. The toe stop 52 is preferably V-shaped to center the tip of thelast toe thereagainst, and is supported 'by'the link 122 pivoted to an arm 124 which is itself movable, as fully described in said prior application, to set the last heelward after the grippers have seized the upper to thereby impart to the upperitsflongitudinal draft. a The toe positioning stop and the side positioning stops are moved from'their last supporting positions as the grippers, tobe' hereinafter described, carry the stretched'upper about the last, but as these features of structure are fully described in said prior application to which reference may be had for a full disclosure of the mechanism, their .further clescription herein is unnecessary. The last with the upper assembled thereon having been placed upon its'support, it is to be seized by the pulling over means, and, with respect to the toe end pulling overmeans, heldwhile the last is set heelward. A form of tee end pulling over means may comprise gripper jaws,two'pairs being herein shown, one pairat each side of the center of the toe end,Fig. 1.

Referring to Fig. 4, one form of toe end pulling over means and operating connectionsis shown and will be briefly described.

Mounted to slide in the curved guide 12. is an upwardly extending support 90 which sustains a vertically arranged curved guide 92on which is mounted the carriage 94 carrying the gripper jaws 4, of the general construction described in said prior application. The link 72 for opening and closing the jaws is connected to a lever 76, the other end of which carries a pin 80 having a pawl adapted'to engage the ratchet teeth 84 on the upper portion of the carriage 94. The lever 76 is also provided with an arm 86 having a socketed end to be engaged by a push rod 104,

sition, the surface of the lower jaw extends ina plane substantially parallel to and at one side ofthe bottom of the last, so that the toe portion of the upper, which when the upper is assembled on the last, extends loosely over the last in substantially a single plane, and may be readily positioned between the jaws by the'operative. The toe gripping jaws 4 having beenclosed by the push rod 104, the toe stop 52, throughv the described connections, will be moved heelward to thereby stretch the upper longitudinally, substantially as set forth in said prior application.

Extending from the gripper carriage 94 is a pin'184 engaging theslotted end 180 of an actuator 17 8, whereby, through suitable operating means, the actuator 17% may be drawn downwardly to move the toe gripper gripper aws about the toe end of the last into substantially the dotted line position as indicated in Fig. .4.

Mounted at the upper portion of the guide 92, is a fastener presenting mechanism which may be substantially of the character described in said prior application, for presenting fasteners to a fastener driving means or driver 300 which is carried by a sleeve 802 pivotally mounted on the gripper carriage 94, the construction being such that as the gripper carriage is moved downwardly on its curved guide 92, the driver 300 carries a fastener into position beneath the edge portion of the then pulled over upper, substantially as indicated in dotted lines, Fig. 4, and as more fully. described in said prior applications. When the. driver on the last and finally its margin placed adhas reached its driving position, it is acted upon by a hammer 274: in the manner fullydescribed in said prior application,to drive the fastener through the upper and into the insole to secure the upper 111 place.

7 The side ortransverse stretching and, pulling over means may be substantially simllar the toe gr1pping mechanism also, the side gripper carriages have each mounted thereon, a fastener driver 300 which takes afastener from the source of supply, as. i1idicated in'Fig. 5, and carries it to dri'ving position. as indicated in Fig. 3, whereupon the hammer 274, like that of the toe; gripper mechanism, eflects driving impulse to the driver to insert a fastener through the then pulled over upper, and into the insole. This brief outline of a particular means for carrying the present invention into effect will be sufficient in connection with the disclosure thereof as contained in theprior application hereinbefore mentioned, and of which the present application is a division.

It will be understood that when the last is placed with its bottom upon the heel and ball supports and between the toe and side positioning stops heretofore described, the upper, which is then extended loosely over the last, is smoothed out by the operative and is placed upon the lower jaws of the open side and toe grippers. The upper having been placed in this position, the grippers are preferably all closed simultaneously by v the operative by actuating the two sets ofpush rods 88 and 104:. After the grippers are thus closed upon the stock, the upper should be stretched and carefully positioned jacent the insole in position to be secured thereto. Much better results are obtained by stretching the upper before it is placed entirely about and in contact with the curved portion of the fore-part of the last than if the stretching were done after this operation, as by the former method frictional contact with the last is eliminated and more uniform results secured. This can be accomplished by any suitable form of mechdinally, as by heelward movement of the toe anism wherein the stretching is performed in advance of and before the completion of the overlapping operation. erably first stretched and positioned longitustop 52, and then it is stretched transversely by separating movement of the grippers 5, Fig. 5, through a further actuation of their push rods 88, as fully set-forth in saidprior both longitudinally The upper is pref-I application, that is,

one sideof the plane of'the last bottom, so that during 7 such stretching action the stretching forceis applied with substantial uniformity to the upper between the points of application thereof. During thisfstage of the procedure, the upper remains smooth fromthe toe through the shank to the heel portion'byreason of the shape of the upper,

and the plane of action of thestretching force, so that when the forepart of the stretched upper is carried downwardor-in a plane of the last bottom,'-the heel and fore-part of the upper are relatively moved to fullness at the shank for subsequent lasting at this point.

direction toward the the last and secured in position to the insole.

the upper is stretched and transversely While it extends in substantially a single plane at,

produce a bend or The upper while stretched as. described, is carried about the toe portionof i The particular means employed for cary rying the present invention into eifectforms no essential part. thereof, but the means briefiydescribed and more fullyyexempli fled in said prior application, constitutes a good and convenien'tform of such mechanism. r

,lVhat is claimed is;* v

c 1. The method of pulling overboots and shoes, which consists in stretchingthe upper while extending in substantially a singleplane, and carrying the stretched upper while under tension about thetoe portion of a last.

2. The methodof pulling oyerf boots and I shoes, which consists in stretching thenpper both longitudinally and then placing the stretched upper about the toe portion of a last.

3. The'methodof pulling over boot'sfand shoes, which consists in stretching the upper longitudinally and completing the lengthwise position .ofthe upper on the last while in; unobstructed view, then stretching the upper transversely and carrying last. 7 I U. i

v 4. The method of pullingovervboots and shoes, which consists in stretching the upper in substantially asingle plane and completing the lengthwise-position.v of the upper on 'the last, then stretching the'upper in suband transversely while extending in substantially a single plane,

the stretched upper about the toe portion of the shoes, Which consists in stretching the upper in position.

7 The method of pulling over boots and shoes, Which consists in first seizing the upper at its edge in the vicinity of the toe While extending in a single plane, then relatively moving the'last and'upper longitudifnally to stretch the upper While in said plane and to position the tip line, and then carrying the upper about the toe portion of the last;

' 8. The'method of pulling over boots and shoes,w hieh consists in seizing the upper at its edgesin the vicinity ofthe toe While extending in a single plane, then relatively moving the last and upper longitudinally to stretch the upper and position the tip line longitudinally, then stretching the upper transversely, and then carryingthe stretched upper about the toe portionof the last. I

9. The method ofpulling over boots and shoes, Which consists in first seizing the 1 upper at its edge in the vicinity of the toe- While extending in a single plane, then relatively moving thelast and upper longitudinally to stretch the upper While in said plane and to position thetip line, and then carry- Oopies of this patent may be obtained for ing the upper about the toe portion of the last, and then securing the upper in position.

10. The method of pulling over boots and shoes, Which consists in stretching the upper longitudinally in a plane at one side of the plane of the last bottom and thereafter carrying the upper While thus stretched about the toe portion of the last.

11. The method of pulling over boots and 1 shoes, which consists in stretching the upper transversely in a single plane, positioning the upper longitudinally on the last and then carrying thestretched upper about the toe portion ofcthe last.

12. The method of pulling over boots and shoes, which consists in stretching the upper in a plane at one side of the plane of the last bottom, then While maintaining the upper in the stretched condition relatively moving the fore-part and heel portions of the upper in a direction toward the last bottom to full the upper at the shank portion, and securing the stretched upper in place.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in thepresence of Witnesses Enro A. HOLMGREN,

HAROLD E. KENYON.

five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, D. G. 

